The Fine Art of Ear Piercing
by admin ~ February 13th, 2009It seems simple enough but doing an accurate and balanced ear lobe piercing requires artistic skill. In addition to marking the front of the lobes, our professionals take the time to consider and mark the backside of the lobes too. Marking the backside of the lobes determines what angle the hoops will sit at and if your studs will point out to the sides or straight forward. Our trained professionals slip sample hoops on to your lobes to show you ahead of time what angle will be most flattering for each unique face (since each lobe attaches to the face differently/person) before we pierce you. We use the same technique to match up multiple lobe piercing angles as well. Getting your lobes done correctly will give the wearer a lifetime of pleasure, and that pleasure is invaluable!
Unfortunately for mass culture, jewelry stores like Claire’s and Piercing Pagoda still use ear-piercing guns, and many people are not aware that there are alternatives. Although ear-piercing guns are a cheaper alternative, as they say- you get what you pay for. Ear-piercing guns are prohibited by use by any member of the Association of Professional Piercers. You can definitely end up with an odd, unmatched ear piercing done by an untrained 16 year old.
Interestingly, piercing guns were developed as cattle taggers, and many of them are non-disposable. As an 18 year old, I bought one and forced my college friends to pierce my earlobe and cartilage multiple times. Of course, my holes are at multiple angles as a result. Guns are really only capable of piercing the tissue perpendicularly, and great placement usually involves transversing the skin a bit instead of just going through at a 90 degree angle, as they have a fixed strength (determined by the force of the spring) and a fixed length which is too short for many people with “meaty” earlobes. I have actually pierced people with a gun (very early in my career I must say) and not had the stud go all the way through the lobe. Not fun!
At my shops, we use single use, disposable needles for all piercings. I know it may sound scary, but this method is the way…the light… and the truth. My arm is way stronger then the gun’s spring, and I can control how I want the piercing angle to be, only with the needle.
I find that people who have “attached” earlobes (lobes that don’t stick out very much) need more transverse placement, and that unless this is done just so, hoops will stick out at funny angles.
If you have difficulty wearing hoop earrings, we can help! Firstly, we can change the angle of the post on your current pieces of jewelry to fix an odd piercing, or give you special earring backs that can hold hoops in place and make some minor corrections. When in NY, just stop by either of my shops for a consultation!
We also pierce many reconstructed earlobes at both of my shops as well. As someone who has gone through many a metamorphosis in earlobe styling, I know first hand about angling and reconstruction. In the mid to late 1990’s I had deliberately stretched earlobes, and wore gold eyelets or ancient Indian gold ear weights. (Earlobe stretching was the vogue in Navaho, Masaai (African), East Indian, Pre-Columbian, and other cultures throughout history). As a blast from the past, note my earlobes in the still from two piercings I did on “The View” in 2000.
Video of me piercing Lisa Ling’s Navel Video of me piercing John Dye’s Ear
As I did more TV interviews, acting in some independent films, and dating men out of the industry, I decided that I was fed up with hiding my stretched earlobes. I was tucking them behind my ear, and using a clip earring to keep them back there while sporting a pretty frontal earring on acting shoots. I consulted with two plastic surgeons that were deeply intrigued and somewhat mystified as to how to make my lobes what they were before I stretched them out. After the surgery, which took about 20 minutes per lobe, I was ready to be healed and get them re-pierced with standard earrings. I waited out the few months to let the inner tissue re-grow and strengthen. Unfortunately, reconstructed holes not only need time to mend, but if you re-pierce them in exactly the same place, the tissue is usually not as strong as it originally was. When I re-pierce reconstructions, I consider not only front placement and angling, but also the depth of the correction. For aesthetics, I usually choose a site where any former stitching will be covered up with jewelry. I am also hyper-aware (since I have been through it myself and do not want to go through it again), that earrings cannot be too heavy. Whenever I design new hoops or long studs, I make sure they are not more than 9 grams each – my personal earlobes weight limit!
I recently re-pierced, in a different spot, the lobe of a woman whose old hole had stretched down. She did not want to get reconstructed, and the placement was far enough away to negate the possibility of old hold and new hold merging. The wonderful thing about it was that she was the mother of a dermatologist, who stayed present in the room, and who was impressed by my technique used for the placement of the new ear piercing. I love it when doctors appreciate the art of piercing! Previous to piercing her mom, the dermatologist daughter had injected filler into the lobe to beef up its thickness and make it appear more youthful. I was amazed.
As a side note, I have been asked many times to pierce the lobes of infants, and I have done so in a few cases as I realize it is a cultural norm for some ethnicities. My stance is that one should be able to ask for the piercing before one gets it. Physiologically, baby’s earlobes are not developed. This means center placement at 1 year old, is not centered at 21 years old. I can usually tell if one has had their earlobes pierced as an infant, as the placement usually ends up looking “high” as an adult. This placement makes it difficult to wear large studs with frontals as they may bonk into the anti-tragus. Also, infants have a hard time sitting still for our front and back marking, making great placement difficult. If you can wait to have your child’s ear pierced, I suggest waiting till at least 5 years old. As I recall, I was a nervous 14 year old getting them done. Now the technology and the trained staffing exist to make this beauty ritual fun and exciting, the way it should be.








